Pecos SWW<>Installing Pavers for a Utility Room Catch Basin

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Installing Pavers for a Utility Room Catch Basin

Mudding the Top of the Interior Pavers

The installation of the pavers was fairly simple. Mud them up, set them in place and then add a couple coats of mud over the top of the pavers that would become the catch basin floor. After the mud had dried, I used a flat paver to scape off any mud that was not level. Moving across the catch basin floor removed any high spots and I removed as much mud as possible next to the drain to ensure that this would be the lowest section of the catch basin floor. I used a putty knife to scape the loose tile-set into a pile and removed it.

After the tile-set had dried thoroughly I installed the 12x12 in ceramic tiles, mudding both the tiles and the pavers once more to be sure I had a solid bond between the pavers and tiles.

The pictures below run through the steps needed to install the catch basin interior and perimeter pavers.

Click on thumbnail to see a larger image

I used a pressed wood shelf to straightline the side and front perimeter pavers. I put mud (tile-set) on both the perimeter pavers and the floor where they were to go. You end up with a lot of tile-set to clean up after the pavers have been put in place but you get a good bond between paver and floor without air pockets. I used an old particle board shelf to put in front of the pavers. This insured that the pavers would be set in a straight line and it protected the flooring already in place.

The perimter pavers were set in place along the straight edge. I mudded the floor where the interior pavers would go. No need to mud up both the floor and pavers the mud on the floor should be more than sufficient to hold the pavers in place.

The interior pavers were set in place. After the tile-set for the interior pavers had dried overnight I began to mud the top of the pavers. I made sure to get the tile-set into the gaps between the pavers, especially where the interior pavers met the perimeter pavers. I wanted to make sure that all of the pavers were firmly tied together with the tile-set.

I finished covering both the perimeter and interior pavers with tile-set. I added a second layer of mud making sure that there was more mud near the right and left sides and the front and back edges. I wanted these sections of the catch basin floor to be slightly higher than the middle to allow for proper draining.

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I used a pressed wood shelf to straightline the side and front perimeter pavers.	I put mud (tile-set) on both the perimeter pavers and the floor where they were to go. You end up with a lot of tile-set to clean up after the pavers have been put in place but you get a good bond between paver and floor without air pockets. I used an old particle board shelf to put in front of the pavers. This insured that the pavers would be set in a straight line and it protected the flooring already in place.

The perimter pavers were set in place along the straight edge.	I mudded the floor where the interior pavers would go. No need to mud up both the floor and pavers the mud on the floor should be more than sufficient to hold the pavers in place.

The interior pavers were set in place.	After the tile-set for the interior pavers had dried overnight I began to mud the top of the pavers. I made sure to get the tile-set into the gaps between the pavers, especially where the interior pavers met the perimeter pavers. I wanted to make sure that all of the pavers were firmly tied together with the tile-set.

I finished covering both the perimeter and interior pavers with tile-set.	I added a second layer of mud making sure that there was more mud near the right and left sides and the front and back edges. I wanted these sections of the catch basin floor to be slightly higher than the middle to allow for proper draining.

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